..... How to build your combat arrows/bolts with UHMW heads: You will need a marker, ruler, scissors and hammer.  Everything else is in your kit.  To get the best results, please understand this is not a one-day procedure.  Take your time and do it right.   Make sure you allow seven days of drying time after you glue on your APDs and blunts.  Your shafts have already been sanded and cleaned with acetone, but if you see any dust or dirt, just give them a quick wipe with a clean cloth.  The bottom edge of your T-shirt will work just fine. Part One:  Attaching the UHMW head. You will need to POUND the shafts into the holes of the UHMW heads.  The holes are exactly the right size and the shafts must be hammered in.  Pound the UHMW heads on BEFORE installing the APDs.  Place a mark ½” from the end of the shaft.  Place that end over the hole of the UHMW blunt.  The blunt should be placed on a hard surface suitable for hammering.  A carpeted floor doesn’t work well (trust me).  Pound with a hammer on the other end of the shaft until your mark reaches the top of the blunt’s hole. Part Two:  Attaching the Asgard APD. Attach the head first. The shaft holes of the APDs have already been roughened for better adhesion.  Put a generous amount of glue over the shaft hole of the APD.  Push the APD onto the shaft until it touches the bottom of the hole and the glue oozes or spurts out of the APD hole.  Push hard! Twist the shaft to distribute the glue evenly.  If your APDs are for arrows (not bolts) and have the nocks still attached, be careful not to damage the tines of the nocks when you push the APD onto the shaft.  I do this by using the edge of a chair.  Place the large round hole of the APD on the chair with the tines off the edge of the chair.  The fiberglass shaft will be vertical while you push the APD onto it using the edge of the chair. After gluing, let it set for seven days without moving it.  Yes, I really mean seven whole days.  Learn from my experience.  I have had APDs ready after 2 days, but not always!  After seven days test the APD to make sure it is secure.  Test it by grasping it and trying to pull it off.  If you can pull it off or twist it around the shaft, re-glue it. The Asgard APD fits the 1/4-inch diameter shafts very snugly.  So snugly, that the shaft will push all the glue down to the bottom of the shaft hole.  You must push the shaft in hard enough to get the glue to distribute between the shaft and the APD.   If the glue creates a bulge at the bottom of the shaft, you can poke a small hole in the bulge with a thumbtack.  This is a lot of fun because the glue will spurt out suddenly and make a mess.  So cover up that nice dining room table you’re working on.  Set the freshly glued APD and shaft aside for a minute, then push it on again to make sure it is not being slowly pushed off by an air bubble in the bottom.  If it is being pushed off, try the thumbtack pinprick trick previously described.  Watch for spurting glue as you push the APD on again.  Getting GOOP adhesive out of carpeting is icky. Part Three:  Tape the shaft. Actually, I like to label the arrows with name and kingdom before taping the shaft.  You can write directly on the fiberglass with a Sharpie marker.  The strapping tape is translucent enough that your writing will show through.  I like to do this because the writing doesn’t wear off or become illegible.  Tape the shaft between the Blunt and the APD with strapping tape.  This takes time and care.  Cut a piece of tape the needed length.  Lay one long edge of the tape carefully lengthwise down the shaft.  Get that one edge of the tape, the long edge, stuck onto the shaft straight before proceeding.   Roll the shaft a little and then push down the tape lengthwise.  Do this in increments.  Each time you push down on the tape, you will stick a little bit more of the tape to the shaft.   Roll the shaft, push down on the tape lengthwise, roll the shaft, push on the tape, roll, tape … Part Four:  Pad the UHMW blunt head. Tape the first foam disk on with 2 pieces of strapping tape about 8 inches long.  Place the tape over the top of the foam and blunt and down the sides of the shafts.  Tape the second piece of foam on top the same way but use 4 pieces of tape to completely cover it.  Wrap the foam rectangle around the side of the blunt and tape into place snugly.  Use 4 pieces of tape over the top and down the side of the blunt to cover everything again.  Using electrical tape, cover the whole blunt once again.  It will take at least 6 pieces of tape about 8 inches long.  Wrap more electrical tape around the shaft at the base of the blunt to secure all the ends of the tape you just applied.  Measure your head (the one you just built) to make sure it’s at least 1/1/2” in diameter. Part Five:  Take care of Your Arrows. You just put an awful lot of work into your arrows/bolts.  Please take good loving care of them.  After shooting, you MUST inspect them.  Even if someone else has inspected them after a battle, you need to re-inspect your own arrows again.  Do not shoot them again if you find any kind of damage, or if the Blunt is not seated or taped correctly.  Arrows, like other weapons, need attention and up-keep.  You will need to fix and re-tape them occasionally.  Inspect them between battles and when you get them home.  Don’t wait until it’s time to take them back out onto the battlefield to inspect them.  Don’t store you arrows in a shed or car where the temperature is uncontrolled.  Extreme temperatures will make the tape come loose.  I find this makes the arrow inspectors grumpy. Part Six:  Be responsible and help me out... SCA Society and SCA kingdom rules are always improving.  Hopefully these instructions do not conflict with any rules, but you better check for yourself.  If you find any problems with these instructions, I would love to hear from you. NorthStar Archery and its employees are not responsible for any injury resulting from abuse or misuse of its products.  Use of the arrows or bolts resulting from these kits assume participation in a contact sport with its own unique risks and hazards. The buyer and user assume ALL risk associated with this participation and holds NorthStar Archery and its staff harmless in the event of injury or death. Thank you so very much for purchasing your combat archery equipment from NorthStar Archery. Shoot Straight!  Linda Archer / Sir Erika   1/1/08 Part Five:  Take care of Your Arrows You just put an awful lot of work into your arrows/bolts.  Please take good loving care of them.  After shooting, you MUST inspect them.  Even if someone else has inspected them after a battle, you need to re-inspect your own arrows again.  Do not shoot them again if you find any kind of damage, or if the Blunt is not seated or taped correctly.  Arrows, like other weapons, need attention and up-keep.  You will need to fix and re-tape them occasionally.  Inspect them between battles and when you get them home.  Don’t wait until it’s time to take them back out onto the battlefield to inspect them.  Don’t store you arrows in a shed or car where the temperature is uncontrolled.  Extreme temperatures will make the tape come loose.  I find this makes the arrow inspectors grumpy. Part Six:  Be responsible and help me out..  SCA Society and SCA kingdom rules are always improving.  Hopefully these instructions do not conflict with any rules, but you better check for yourself.  If you find any problems with these instructions, I would love to hear from you. UHMW KIT ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS. Please read instructions thoroughly before getting started. To get the best results, please understand this is NOT A ONE-DAY PROCEDURE.  Take your time and do it right.   Make sure you allow seven days of drying time after you glue on your APDs and blunts. You will need scissors and a marker.  Everything else is in your kit.  Your shafts have already been sanded and cleaned with acetone, but if you see any dust or dirt, just give them a quick wipe with a clean cloth.  The bottom edge of your T-shirt will work just fine.